
It may look ordinary, but it’s not your great grandmother’s sewing machine. This Adler 205-320 Cylinder Arm Saddle is the Big Daddy of three sewing machines we use – and there’s a reason we use it 98% of the time. With a triple feed mechanism and a maximum stitch length of 1/4 inch, it’s the real workhorse of the studio.
We purchased this Adler about five years ago when Arthur’s Mountainsmith cordura fanny pack broke. When he couldn’t find a suitable replacement, we decided to just get our own sewing machine and start making our own bags (sound familiar?). We also use the machine to sew up all of our book covers, bags, moleskine products, menus and some custom products. (NOTE: All of our journals are HAND STITCHED with needles and thread.)
The advantage of this heavy-duty machine is that it guarantees maximum durability and a solid aesthetic. The heavy thread we use gives our products a hand-sewn look and superior strength. The triple feed mechanism sews any material that goes through here in three different ways to ensure an even stitch length and that there is no slipping.
In the title picture, you can see the large flywheel on the right. This is where the motor connects to the machine by means of a belt, much like the fan belt in your car. Weighing 10 pounds, the flywheel gives plenty of momentum to provide smooth stitching when the needle travels through multiple layers (up to 1 inch) of leather. The handle just to the left of the flywheel controls forward and reverse. All the way to the left is where the needle is housed, and the pressure foot is raised and lowered by the handle on the top left. But we have a pedal on the floor for that also.
As you can see in this next photo (click the thumbnail for a bigger version), the needle and bobbin are huge. The needle has twice the diameter of a paper clip and is almost as long as a Bic lighter. The bobbin has a one-inch diameter and is housed in the shuttle for sewing.

For all those home sewers who frequently poke their finger on their home machine, this is not a needle to get close to. At a top speed of 600 stitches per minute it will effortlessly sew right through your bone. Arthur, Kristel, LaShanda and Allin all work on this machine, and they can all attest to how carefully they use it in order to save their fingers.
In this next photo, you can see the machine and how the cylinder arm hangs over the table. This helps when sewing bags because the bulk of the bag hangs over the table as you stitch the edge. Those two spools of thread on the top right? They are two pounds each. One is for the machine and the other for winding bobbins.

This next picture is of the shuttle assembly. This is where the bobbin thread and the top thread get all tied together and make the stitch. Various screws and dials here and on the machine control how tight the stitch gets. It’s good to mention now that there are about 24 places to oil this machine, all of which gets oiled once a week. The shuttle itself gets a drop of oil every 2 or 3 bobbins - on average, we go through about 6 or 7 bobbins daily. When working on a large order for menus or binders or a large custom order, we can go through 30 bobbins in a single day. Granted, they do not hold much because of the heavy thread we use - one bobbin can sew 3-1/2 to 4 shoulder straps for a bag before it runs out.

We do require our people to train on this machine extensively before using it for production. How? By having them make leather coasters. By sewing two pieces of square leather, they learn how to sew straight, use the guide, how to start, stop and control the machine as well as mastering how to do nice, neat corners. Afterwards, they can put a stiff drink on the coaster (that they get to keep, of course) and celebrate keeping all of their fingers.
Next time you look at the large stitches on our products, think of Big Daddy, and pray we don’t stick our fingers!
P.S. Happy Easter, everyone!